![]() ![]() During this time, youĬan be working on your next section. Your packaging instructions) to do its work. Don’t cake it on thickly otherwise you’ll have a heck of a time trying to get it all off again! Check the packaging for a guideline on how much is suitable.Īpplied in one zone, you need to leave it for 3-5 minutes (or per Second, dab some of the wax onto your clean and washed (or new) microfiber towel, and apply with about 3-5lbs of pressure in slow, small area circular strokes in your first zone. Each zone should be about 2 square feet, but it’s up to you. Follow these steps, and you’ll get great results.įirst, choose an area of the car to start (the hood is a good place) and divide that area into zones in your mind. Stage 2 – Applicationĭespite the many things to consider, the application process itself is not so complex. The buildup from previous waxes can become abrasive and damage the paintwork. You should only use a fresh, washed and clean towel each time you wax. If you have a cloth that has been used for waxing and not yet washed, do not use it. First, you need them to dry the car, but you also need them for waxing. Step 4 – Ensure you have an ample supply of clean and dry microfiber cloths. It will work to get out any tricky embedded dirt that may otherwise impact your waxing process and that the initial wash was unable to shift. Step 3 – Consider using a car detailing clay on the surface you want to wax before you start. The temperature should be from 55-85 degrees. You need a space that’s shaded, cooler, preferably indoors if possible, like the garage. Step 2 – Move your car out of direct sunlight. For best drying results, use microfiber cloths. The car must be dry before you start the waxing. Step 1 – Give your car a thorough washing and, more importantly, drying. ![]() Stage 1 – Preparationīefore you even open the wax container, there are several preparatory steps you need to take. Below you’ll find our stage-by-stage guide to the application process that will get you the best possible results. Carnauba paste wax can lookĮither yellow (more expensive version), or white and lasts up to 4įor our “how-to” guide, we are going to use the most common form of wax, the standard paste wax, which is still the top choice for the majority of users. One of the top natural choices for wax is carnauba, either as anĪctive ingredient or as the main agent. Liquids may be either constituted by synthetic ingredients like theĪforementioned polymers, or they may also have natural ingredients. Product you buy, they still come in different varieties. Often the effect of spray wax is somewhat shorter, but the application is often the easiest because the handy spray bottle makes even and precise application easy. Application can be tricky at times because the liquid polymers dry much more quickly than paste and others. These products are sometimes the longest-lasting because their special formulation includes chemical polymers that bond fiercely with the paint surface, creating a phenomenal protective effect (depending on the overall strength). Users will note that it takes quite a bit more elbow grease than other products to wipe off the wax after application. It’s typically of a harder texture and in the higher price bracket owing to its long-lasting protection. Very often comes in a paste form of varying thickness and color. Likely heard of big brands like Turtle Wax, but even that one brand Quite diverse, perhaps much more so than you ever imagined. ![]()
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